Size guide
Or work it out yourself — everything below.
Three numbers. That is all sunglasses sizing really is.
Every frame we sell lists its measurements. Once you know what they mean, you can tell whether a pair will fit before you buy it.
The three numbers that matter
Lens width — how wide one lens is, at its widest point. This is the number that decides whether a frame looks proportionate on your face. Bigger number, bigger frame.
Bridge — the gap between the two lenses, sitting over your nose. A bridge that is too narrow pinches. Too wide and the frame slides down.
Temple length — the arms that go over your ears. Most adult frames sit between 140mm and 150mm, and small differences here matter less than the other two.
A worked example
Take a frame listed as:
- Lens width — 50mm
- Bridge — 16mm
- Total width — 60mm
- Temple length — 143mm
- Overall — 147mm
Read it like this. Each lens is 50mm across. There is a 16mm gap over your nose. The front of the frame measures 60mm edge to edge, and the arms run 143mm back to your ears.
How to check it against your own face
The easiest method needs a ruler and a mirror. Measure the width of your face at the widest point — roughly temple to temple, across your cheekbones. Compare it to the total width of the frame.
- Frame width within about 5mm of your face width — good fit
- Frame noticeably narrower — it will pinch and look small
- Frame much wider — it will slide and look borrowed
If you already own sunglasses that fit well, look inside the left temple arm. Most frames have the numbers printed there. Match those instead — it is faster and more reliable than measuring yourself.
The six face shapes
These are the same six the camera check uses, with the same names, so the two always agree. This is guidance, not law — plenty of people look good in the wrong shape. The general rule is contrast: angular frames balance soft faces, rounded frames soften angular ones.
Oval
Balanced proportions, slightly longer than wide. The easy one — almost anything sits well. Buy the one you like the look of.
Round
Soft, curved lines with width close to height. Go angular — square, rectangle and geometric add definition. A round frame blends in and you lose the edges.
Square
Strong jaw and squared-off corners. Go rounded — round, oval and cat-eye cut against it and balance it out. Avoid sharp boxy frames.
Heart
Wider at the top, narrowing towards the chin. Small and light frames sit neatly without making the top half look heavier. Avoid heavy top-heavy frames.
Diamond
Cheekbones are the widest part, quite defined, narrowing at both forehead and chin. A curved rim plays against that instead of competing with it. Cat-eye and oval work well.
Long
Noticeably longer than it is wide. A frame with real depth top to bottom breaks up the length. Avoid narrow, shallow frames — they stretch it further.
Not sure which you are?
The camera check at the top of this page answers it in twenty seconds, and it reads the depth of your cheeks and jaw — which a mirror cannot.
If you would rather do it by hand: pull your hair back, look straight into a mirror, and trace the outline of your face on the glass with your finger. The shape you draw is usually obvious once it is separated from your hair. If it sits between two of these, treat it as the softer of the two. Contrast is the point.
Still not sure
Email us the frame you are looking at and a rough face width, and we will tell you honestly whether it will work. We would rather talk you out of a pair than process a return.